| Re: Shafts Thanks for the comments guys.
The reason behind it was that I recently decided to get my driver and 3 wood reshafted. I'm reasonably tall with quite a fast club head speed (years of Aussie Rules and Rugby!) so I decide to get some shafts that would stop my main problems of ballooning the ball and the occassional snap hook. My initial attempts to find the right shaft left me feeling pretty bemused by all the options so having waded through them I thought I might spare others the same hassle.
If you didn't find it useful then it's no big deal, but the idea that there are hundreds of factors in a swing is plain wrong. Swing faults (or idiosyncrasies) tend to be fairly limited in number: do we come down flatter or steeper than normal, do we have a wristly impact or maybe we start the down swing with an agressive snatch. These are all fairly common issues but few people have more than a couple. If they did then we wouldn't be able to hit the ball! While it's correct to say that the average golfer needn't worry about most of what is discussed in the article, without this knowledge the average golfer won't know what is important and what isn't. That's why I specifically mention weight, length, flex and kick point at the end of the article as being the most important properties. There are properties that all golfer need to be aware of, both what they are and how they affect the ball flight.
Having gone through the grinder to find out what is right for me, I wanted to pass on any info I got especially as it was suprising the difference the right shaft makes. For the first time in my life I can control the trajectory of my drives: high, low and fade and draw, and that makes a big difference to your game.
__________________ Cleveland Launcher 460 - Aldila NV 65 x-stiff
Callaway Big Bertha 3W - Aldila NV 75 x-stiff
TaylorMade Rescue Dual TP (16°, 19°) stiff
Mizuno MP-32 2-PW Rifle Flighted 6.0
Titleist Vokey Wedges 52°, 56°, 60° Scotty Cameron Circa 62 #3 35/330 |