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Originally Posted by Lumlum Hi Lowpost,
Thanks for your response, I think its from reading your posts here that I've decided on the Durometers. Do you recommend green or black inserts? |
I play the blacks, myself. I don't see the need for jarred hands on mishits.
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Originally Posted by Lumlum Maybe I sould go for the pre-assembled clubs, as it would clearly save some money and a lot of time. The problems I have with going this route is that the club builder at BigHit said he thinks that spines in steel shafts are undetectable and that he's broken his bender. |
ROFL! Undetectable? A spine may be difficult to differentiate from residual bend, yes. Have him FLO it instead. FLO is quite detectable. As for his broken bender - send him to
www.mr3golfdesigns.com and tell him to buy a True Blue. I love mine. PS: Golfsmith tools are for hobbyists
LOL
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Originally Posted by Lumlum I'm not too worried about finding the spines, as I can do this at the start of next season when I make a set of irons up. However, I think it is worth doing the lies as soon as possible. Is it possible to bend the clubs for lie with the shafts intact, and could I not go down the rubber mallet/vise route, if i can find an accurate way of measuring the lies before and after. |
My bending machine actually needs the shaft in the clubhead to read the change. However, I could bend the heads to within 1° easily without the shafts. You could certainly go the vise route if you were in dire straits. However, if his bending machine is broken, I'd tell him to pick 'out of spec' heads, then. Or go to another dealer altogether. My bending machine works fine (but I've gotta ship it across the pond
)
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Originally Posted by Lumlum Would you say that the Durometer PW is better than the SMT 303MB PW? |
The only difference between the MB PW and the Duro PW is the insert. I've considered building a set, and I'd go with the Duro PW, myself.
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Originally Posted by Lumlum One final thing, can you please explain what frequency matching (in reference to shafts) is and why you would do it?
Thanks again
Chris |
Frequency matching is, simply, making sure all the shafts play to the same flex.
I just built a set of
irons. I checked their raw frequency (no tip trim). I had shafts freqing at 283, and one at 297. That's a full flex difference. OK, at least I know. If I was to blindly follow manufacturer tip trimming instructions, when I used that 297 shaft, it would be stiffer than all the rest. Instead, I follow the slope, and put that shaft in where it belongs (it ended up in a SW).
Shafts that flex consistently help add consistency across your set. Shafts that bend consistently (have been FLO'ed or spined) help add ballstriking consistency across your set.
Shafts that have been installed in a factory have no necessary consistency.
Finally, expect to pay for things. Expect to pay for a shaft that's been spined/FLO'ed. Expect to pay for bending. Expect to pay for frequency matched shafts (although, without the actual heads and final build length specs, you really can't frequency match shafts, can you?)