Hi Lowpost,

His lack of bending equipment and his lack of interest in spine-finding/FLOing is what is what is making me want to buy the clubs unassembled, coupled with the fact that I like the idea of learning how to do it myself. I reckon the investment in basic tools (including the compressor, and DIY spinefinder) will almost pay itself back once I've built a complete bag of clubs (early mext year), plus I get to really customise as much as I want.

How dire is dire when it comes to adjusting the lies with the pikey screwdriver (mallet)? Will it damage the club heads or is it an issue of accuracy?

Going back to the frequency matching, is the reason you put the shaft that oscillated at 297Hz (do you measure in Hz?) in the SW that it has a high club head weight?

Would you want all your woods to be matched, all your irons to be matched and all the wedges too? Or do you want the entire bag to play to the same frequency? The reason I ask is that the shafts that come with the Durometers are Dynalite Golds which have a high trajectory - which I assume is fine for your wedges - however, I'm pretty tall (6'5") and I seem to hit the ball pretty high anyway so will probably go for low trajectory shafts for my irons when I build them, and ~I assume you can't frequency match accross different types of shaft. Finally, do Royal Precision Rifles come frequency matched already?

It is clear to me that I'm going to have to do a lot of reading, and that this site (and probably you lowpost) is going to bare the brunt of my questions?

Thanks again

Chris