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Originally Posted by Lumlum Hi Lowpost,
His lack of bending equipment and his lack of interest in spine-finding/FLOing is what is what is making me want to buy the clubs unassembled, coupled with the fact that I like the idea of learning how to do it myself. I reckon the investment in basic tools (including the compressor, and DIY spinefinder) will almost pay itself back once I've built a complete bag of clubs (early mext year), plus I get to really customise as much as I want. |
John Kaufman sells a Frequency Analyser (Club Scout). It might be a worthwhile investment - especially if you buy his laser FLO jig. I place FLO more important than spine. And now you know why I own a compressor (clean grips? Fooey! Regrip! It's just so darn fast and easy!), a bending machine (I was missing everything left at the range. A couple degrees flat should solve that. Plus, that PW is too long. I'll just weaken it a bit, and my yardage gaps will be perfect.), a frequency analyser (Club Scout 2), as well as all the requisite power tools - belt sander, chop saw, drill press, wet tile saw, vise. You're headed down a dark, slippery road, Chris. Turn back now, while you're credit cards are still clear, and your wife still loves you (and can easily recognize your face!)
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Originally Posted by Lumlum How dire is dire when it comes to adjusting the lies with the pikey screwdriver (mallet)? Will it damage the club heads or is it an issue of accuracy? |
Well, like I said earlier, 1° off from 100 yards is a 22 foot miss. 2° is 44 feet - almost 15 yards. Most average sized greens are 30 yards by 30 yards (give or take). So a 2° error from ONLY 100 yards out is half a green. I'd say that you really need to get your lies as close to proper for you as possible. As for beating a clubhead with a mallet? It's a long process, but it won't hurt the clubhead. Now, reefing on it with a vise or pliers will certainly mark the metal.
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Originally Posted by Lumlum Going back to the frequency matching, is the reason you put the shaft that oscillated at 297Hz (do you measure in Hz?) in the SW that it has a high club head weight? |
The standard measurement for freq is CPM (cycles per minute). I believe 1 Hz is 60 CPM. But enough about physics. Yes, the stiffer shaft went in the SW, as the heavier club head meant that I didn't have to trim as much in order to get it to the proper flex.
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Originally Posted by Lumlum Would you want all your woods to be matched, all your irons to be matched and all the wedges too? Or do you want the entire bag to play to the same frequency? The reason I ask is that the shafts that come with the Durometers are Dynalite Golds which have a high trajectory - which I assume is fine for your wedges - however, I'm pretty tall (6'5") and I seem to hit the ball pretty high anyway so will probably go for low trajectory shafts for my irons when I build them, and I assume you can't frequency match accross different types of shaft. |
That's quite a lot... I tend to group heads into woods and hybrids/irons/wedges. In other words, my wood shaft flexes are much different than my
irons/hybrids/wedges; however, where I use the same shaft, I frequency match. (Save the 60°. I almost always put a softer flex in a 60°, because I don't use it for a full swing. But that's my own preference, and something I offer when I build
clubs). As for high flight/low flight, it only matters if you have a late release. Otherwise, the shaft is all done bending by the time you get to impact (in other words, there's no more 'kick' by impact, so kickpoint and tip stiffness properties are moot). And while you
can frequency match across different types of shaft, it doesn't mean you'll get the same results (ball flight, kick point, or even flex) in the different make of shafts. This is because when we build to a freq. slope, we're only measuring the butt frequency. So if we mix it up with both butt soft and butt stiff shafts, we'll end up with some shafts that seem much stiffer than others, but they may all play the same. Or they may freq similarily, but bend totally differently. Therefore, if you're going to freq match, only do it across the same shafts.
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Originally Posted by Lumlum Finally, do Royal Precision Rifles come frequency matched already?
It is clear to me that I'm going to have to do a lot of reading, and that this site (and probably you lowpost) is going to bare the brunt of my questions?
Thanks again
Chris |
Yes, Rifles come frequency matched
as long as you build to Rifle standard. Unfortunately, I don't know what Rifle standard is. (But this point of building to Rifle standard was driven home to me by a Rifle Certified clubmaker I know.)
I'm still not sure for myself whether a frequency match or a frequency slope is best to follow (where match means all butt frequencies are equal, and slope means they move by a uniform step). I currently build following the slope that the shafts show me. How it works is that I take two shafts that freq the same. I then trim one for the 'longest club' I'm building (we'll say 3 iron for the sake of an argument). I then trim the other for the shortest club (lets go with PW). Then I dry fit the heads at the weight they'll be (I shoot for a 7g step between heads, as this seems to be what most manufacturers are reportedly doing for spec, anyway); and freq the
clubs. For arguments sake, lets say the 3 iron freq's at 300, and the PW freqs at 328. So, I the shafts look to follow a 4 CPM slope. So I'd build the 4 to 304, the 5 to 308, the 6 to 312 and so on.
If you're ordering components, the best thing to do is ask for things to be hand picked to whatever spec you need. Order heads to the loft and lie you need, order shafts to the weight you'd like, etc. (Unfortunately, you cannot order them to a specific CPM. At least, I don't know of anyone who does this).