Rule #1: A good puller saves you time, money, and advil (or aleve).

The the head must not be twisted, under any circumstances. To ignore this is a sure-fire way to compromise the graphite fibers, rendering the pull useless (or 3 wood bound if you're lucky).

What kind of heat are you using, how long are you using it, and how are you using it?

I hear lots of folks like micro torches. I prefer a plumbers torch. I keep it hot, and moving over the hosel. When I clamp the shaft in the puller, I always clamp it toe-away. This serves two purposes. One, it gives me more hosel to work with. Two, it's the backside of the club. If I do happen to scorch something that I can't undo, it doesn't show at address. I heat the side towards me for a 3 count (keep the heat moving). Then the side away for 3. Then the top for 3. Then the bottom for 3. Then I crank the puller a little. Rinse and repeat until the epoxy lets go. I find it imperative to put a little pressure on the head, so that you can see when the epoxy has let go. That way you only use the absolute minimum amount of heat.

What's in my shop? I use the JB Pro Hydraulic puller. Best puller on the market, bar none. Screw-types are ok for a hobbiest, but the minute you nick the paint job on a good shaft, you probably could have paid for the JB.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.