You can try something with a lower flex if you like. As far as torque is concerned, you want the lowest torque you can find.

Torque effects the shafts' ability to square up at impact - the lower the torque number, the better it squares up.

As for slicing, if your mechanics are sound (and they sound like they are), there are two things to check for the club.

First is the grip size - a grip that is too big promotes a fade/slice, a grip that is too small promotes a draw/hook.

The second (as mentioned) is your shaft flex. If a shaft is too stiff it's tough to load, and tough to square up at impact - causing a slice.

A shaft that is too flexible tends to snap shut, promoting a draw/hook. The problem here is that due to the flexibility, you'll often spray the ball all over the place. Maybe it's time to try some regular flex drivers, maybe even consider an A flex driver.

The key to shafts (as stated many times here) is to play the most flexible shaft you can control. (In other words, play the most flexible shaft you can, while maintaining accuracy). The extra flex helps you keep your distance up.

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True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.