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| Clone vs real thing I am new to the forum so if this has been covered b/4, forgive me. I play with an old set of Tommy Armour ti-100 and am about ready to upgrade. I am looking at a Clone of the new Callaway x-18 (I think, may be x-19). My question is; Is there that much difference, in general, between a clone and the real thing? Also, how important are custom clubs. I.E. Lie angle, type and length of shaft etc? |
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| Re: Clone vs real thing We have had several debates on here as to which is better, clones or OEMs. What usually comes out is that the best choice is component clubs. The reasoning is that OEMs are expensive because of the advertising they do, and clone companies come and go and you will have trouble with warranty, consistancy of the heads. Many of the component companies have been around for a while, provide great customer service, provide exceptional quality products but don't have the high advertising costs. If you are looking for irons, try Snake Eyes (www.golfsmith.com) or Dynacraft (www.dynacraftgolf.com or www.golfquip.com in Canada.)
__________________ Gord Quote of the month: "It's easy to see golf not as a game at all but as some whey-faced, nineteenth-century Presbyterian minister's fever dream of exorcism achieved through ritual and self-mortification." ~Bruce McCall |
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| Re: Clone vs real thing Clones generally are trying to make a quick buck by creating some lookalike heads - some of the proprietary technology just isn't there in clones (such as weight distribution, aerodynamics, and in putters, insert materials). Example: I have both a 2ball clone and an actual 2ball. The clone is much heavier, and the insert is not the same as the Odyssey White Hot. But it sure LOOKS like an Odyssey! That said, when it comes to irons, I would buy clone heads (ok, I did buy clone heads, and assembled them myself), and get them built by a respectable clubmaker. There's not too much technology going into irons, per se, (yes, weighting, but there's not much to do for irons, IMHO). In fact, my brother-in-law bought some Pinemeadow clone irons, and loved them. We pulled and spined the shafts, and now he loves them even more. But generally speaking the best performing, best value clubs are component (SMT, SnakeEyes, Dynacraft, LogicTech, Maltby, etc). They're developped like OEMS, but without the big price. And for those that want to play Tour equipment, we're starting to see more and more pro's using components (Voodoo Putters, Yes! Putters, SMT drivers). As for custom fitting, it's well worth it. Even if you're average height (so clubs aren't adjusted for lie or length) it quite important to have shafts that fit your swing. Too stiff, and you'll never load them properly (and may lose balls right), too flexible, and you'll overload the shaft and spray balls everywhere. And don't be fooled by the letters. One companies' 'R' flex is another companies' 'S' flex, and a thirds' 'A' flex.
__________________ PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter - www.pcsgep.com True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day. I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it. For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor. |
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Thought I had decided on club heads, but second thoughts. If I wanted clubs like the Taylor Made RAC ST 2s, which components would I order from say Dynacraft or Golf Smith? Ther are about 9 million heads. Also, would you recommed paying 40.00 for a swing analysis? |
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