shaft puring...a benefit to an amatuer?

My fujikura speeder shaft...or should i say pro lite hsaft with fujikura stamped on it shattered mid round yesterday (shattered on contact of the ball...not done because i was mad). Anyway, i took it into a golf shop and luckily the guy had the newer version of the speeder shaft in (the titleist sppeder shafts are only available through titlesit). It was a brand new shaft and the guy sold it to me installed for 50 bucks. Not a bad deal. Than he sold me on puring the shaft. Cost me an extra 20 bucks (with a new grip) to have that done. Will puring a shaft help a 15 handicapper like myself? Or was it a waste of money.
ed

I'm a firm believer in puring shafts. Now, spined or flo'ed? I don't necessarily think one is better than the other. That said, I prefer to spine (mostly because I don't have any flo'ing gear).

But I won't build a club for myself that I haven't spined.

Will it help? I believe it will. However, I also think that it's kind of irrelevant to only have one club done. Granted, that one club will perform more consistently, (as it will want to snap to the same spot over and over), but if I had a choice to get it done or not, I would get it done.

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A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

sent you a private message

And replied.

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Joe drinking Hacker

Eeeeehhh, what's up doc?

How do you spine a graphite shaft? (Since they usually have multiple spines)

Yes I do spine a graphite shaft. There is a predominate spine and the rolling test will accurately detect the location of the shaft. This is why I never mark the spine on a single roll. Multiple rolls will identify the spine. I have had my 3 wood taken to a flex analyzer and when the club was tested, it moved in a straight up and down manner when the toe is pointed straight up, not circular. This indicates that the correct spine has been identified and installed correctly. A circular motion indicates a shaft installed with the spine not aligned with the face of the club.

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Joe drinking Hacker

I use the same method as 'the doc' and have had great success. I build clubs for friends and family and they are all extremely happy with the final product.

As the doc said, you must perfrom the test several times to ensure you have the dominant spine identified.

Good stuff. It would be an interesting test to run against a spining machine vs. the tabletop, and see if they both indicate the same thing.

Interesting Stuff! But do fujikura shafts have a spine? Aren't they filament wound as opposed to layered sheets, applied randomly on the shaft on a mandrel instead of a uniform pattern which causes a thick spine one side and thick the other??

There's still a spine. Albeit a small spine, but it's still there, and will still effect playing characteristics. The golf industry has yet to make a spineless shaft, although they're getting close.

I am thinking about puring my clubs. I would think this would mean removing existing grips etc.My main question is regarding fitting pured shafts to club heads, how is the mark positioned ,at nine oclock or some other orientation?I am using the method as described by an earlier contributor, I.E hardwood floor or some such surface ,any input would be appreciated.

The club rests spine down. Mark the 12 o'clock position, and face this mark to target.