New Clubs - Shafts - Help

Hi there,

If you have already purchased a set of X18 without having them fitted then you are already off on the wrong foot.

Callaways have to be ajusted at the factory due to the hosel design, being 5ft 8' like me you may find they need to be a little flat maybe 2 degrees.

Are the regular/stiff ??????????

On the bright side they are a little heavier than most but this will help you as they are also very long hitting clubs and very forgiving, stck with Callaway and practice, once you get used to them you may be suprised.
Moving from gravite to steel with a heavy head as well will feel very different.


Let me know about the shaft flex reg/stiff and come back to me.



Ian.

p.s don't go getting the shafts swopped just yet, the pro who sold them you can do that for free.

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Like I said, I was able to get them cheap.

[quote] Callaways have to be ajusted at the factory due to the hosel design, being 5ft 8' like me you may find they need to be a little flat maybe 2 degrees..[quote]That means the club head, right?

I think the x18 have only this Uniflex. One flex for all. If not, I know I have the Uniflex

He's not a pro but I know he can re-shaft them for me. But it will be a long proccess and I will have to pay for the shafts.

Any other suggestion are appreciated......

Thats good news,

Shafts are designed for swing speed if you are fast then you require a stiff slower swing speeds require Regular and uniflex is in between.

Reshafting is very difficult with callaway as they are "through bore shafts" short for difficult. I would not advise this.


If you are happy to stick with these clubs then thats personal preference, without knowing your swing speed I can't advise if the shafts are correct, however in between can't be to bad.

Stick with them and practice, they are great clubs.


Ian.

I went to a golf shop today and took a few swings with these clubs in steel and graphite. My swing speed was around 67-69 with the steels and around 70-72 with the graphs...

Uniflex should be fine then for you, don't worry about them being steel you will get used to them.

You have got some great clubs there at a very cheap price.


Good luck.

Ian.

1. When clubs are customized for someone, is the shaft the only thing adjusted?

No. Lie (how toe up/down the club sits at address) may also be adjusted. You might want to have lofts checked as well.

2. What should be tested when he does my clubs (besides height)?

A static fitting should be the place to start. Wrist-to-floor measurements, hand size, etc. This should be followed by a dynamic fitting - swinging the club with marking tape, checking posture, etc. Your swing speed should also be checked, but not with your knowledge, ideally. When most people know they're having their SS checked, they often swing harder than they would on the course,

3. Any recommendations for shafts?

No. There are a ton of great shafts out there, and each one plays different. I would have them frequency or deflection matched, and spined. (This is known as shaft puring). This will go a long way to having the clubs play more consistently club to club.

4. What flex would I be looking at?

With a 3 or 4 iron from 150, that sounds like a highly flexible shaft is your goal. But the letter stamped on the shaft is likely irrelevant, as one companies' R flex is another companies' A flex, and yet a third company may have the same flex labelled S.

This is the importance of a good clubfitter - s/he can suss out your requirements, then set up your clubs to best match you. Don't be ignorant - there is a price to pay for well-fitting and well made clubs. And while OEM's may make great HEADS, they don't assemble their clubs well.

Just my .02

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I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Ian, I thought the point of the uniflex shaft was that it was actually a more flexible shaft with a 'floating kickpoint' that changes depending on the load put on the shaft.

Are you sure that 'uniflex' is a different term for 'firm flex' (between R and S)?

Lowpost,

Can the lie/lofts be adjusted when he re-shafts my clubs?

Should I be asking the guy to do all this if he does do my clubs?

Thanks Lowpost,

With the swing speed given uniflex should be fine.

Of course you are correct with the other methods of fitting, however her we have a chap who has got a great deal on some new callaways, now insists on having then reshafted at 30£$ per club, lofts and lies that can "only" be done at the factory, oh and then regripped to the correct thickness after cutting half an inch off cause he's 5ft 8'.

Are you going to tell him that he's got a set of clubs that will end up costing in the region of £$1000 by the time they are fitted correctly.

Two choices either manage with what you have bought which as I say should be ok flex wise with his swing speed, or spend spend spend...............


Personally I would take them back ask for a fitting and order some new ones.




Ian.

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Once you learn the swing, your next step is mastering golf psychology................

Wish that were an option

Lowpost is correct, you should have a full fitting before purchasing clubs,

However like I said you have got a great set of clubs, uniflex should be fine, you just need to get used to the weight of them and I am sure you will be fine.


Ian.

Pfunk123,

The heads on the x-18s are great and the CW shafts(112 grams) are so so. You should be using the lightest, most flexible shaft you can control. Also, the heads can be bent outside the factory. Low hosel bending is available outside the factory, but be careful of who you use. The proper bending bar and clamping machine are required. Here are a couple shaft suggestions:
Grafalloy ProCustom (74 grams) a good affordable graphite shaft.
TrueTemper TX-90 (104 grams) a ultralight steel shaft for.
Both are readily available for around $11 each shaft.

A decent reshafting person worth their weight will be able to reuse the grips.

Hope this helps.

I am in a similar predicament though I have not yet bought my clubs. I am trying to decide between Callaway x18 pro series or the new Big Bertha Fusion Irons. My driver swing speed is around 90, and I too am looking at the 99 gram uniflex. I am a 5' 8 " female currently playing Ping I3+ A flex irons that are too whippy for me. (My woods and drivers are all Callaway mens reg flex) I was fitted regular length 3 flat by ping rep Terry Graham last year, but every pro who has seen me swing thinks that that my irons are too flat, and the concensus has been that I should be in Iron.

Do you believe that standardly us 5'8"ers need to get 1/2" off, and 2 degrees flat. The Ping static fitter puts me at 1 to 2 degrees upright. I don't know if this means anything, but whenever I grip my current irons I tend to try to grip them right at the very end, as they never seem quite comfortable.

The Big Bertha Fusion Irons are a dream... Highly reccomend a test drive, but am not crazy about the look. I do however love the look of the X-18 pro series, and I am a fan of a thin topline and smaller head.

Anyhow, would love any input you may have,

Lynnore

Hi Lynn,

I am 5ft 8in, also I have just had a new set of Taylormade rac lt 2s fitted, after a 5 week wait they have finally arrived last week. I have 1/4 inch shorter and 2 degrees flat and a standard grip with a regular shaft. I have found that every time I have clubs fitted the same stats come out. My swing speed is also around 95.

I had a set of Callaways X16 pro series, fitted the same however compared to the Taylormades or any forged iron there is definatley a loss of feel with Callaway, I have noticed this more since changing, but I do think callaway's long irons are easier to hit.

Good luck with whichever clubs you choose, not sure about the 2 degrees upright though, get a second opinion.

Ian.

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Once you learn the swing, your next step is mastering golf psychology................