Regrip Question

I hope I can make my question clear.

When regripping, I secure the club shaft horizontially in my vise. I point the toe of the club toward the ceiling. I use a "square" resting on my work surface and adjust the toe to make sure that the club FACE is perpendicular to the shaft. Am I on the right track?

For those of you who understand my description, add 15 points to your IQ!

Jim

Yes.
I use a bit of wood screwed to the floor to hold the face square whilst I allign the grip.
Your method looks fine to me.

Those methods are great guys, but read my post here about the compressor.

Then, you don't need to be near so precise the first time when putting grips on.

As for your current methods, they're fantastic. I have a tile floor where I work, so I hold the club square to a tile, and eyeball the grip. Then I pop it with air, give the grip a little twist, check it again, (adjust if necessary), and away I go.

Jim, you're method is certainly more scientific than mine, (playing with squares - shame on you ), but it's exactly what you're trying to do. It may even make grip alignment much easier if I actually took the time to square my face while still in the vise...

__________________
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter - www.pcsgep.com
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Thanks guys.

LowPost42 - If I'm using a compressor to regrip a brand new shaft, do I apply tape to the shaft or just run the grip up the bare shaft using solvent?

Jim

Hi Jim,

The only time I use tape is if the core size of the grip is the same as or bigger than the butt size of the shaft.

If it's the same, I use one layer of tape. I prefer to buy the 2" wide tape, cut it to length, and smooth it on. The other method is to buy the 1" or 1/2" wide tape, and spiral it on (but I'm not that good, and get mezmerized by the barberpole effect).

Just to clear up some terminology (for yours and anyone elses benefit):

Core size - the inside diameter of the grip. Popular sizes are .600" for men, and .560" for ladies. I myself prefer to play .580" grips stretched over .600" butts. This creates a mens standard grip +1/32". There's plenty of charts out and about that will tell you how many layers of tape equal what size grip, and what putting a smaller core over a bigger butt creates.

Butt of shaft - this is the end you'd hold on to. (I know, I know - quit patronizing me, you SOB! )

__________________
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter - www.pcsgep.com
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

On the subject of grips... Now that I have an actual matched set of irons, I'm going to re-grip them. I think I'd like to use non-tapered grips, if I can find them. So far, I've only found overpriced Natural Golf grips. Any other suggestions for non-tapered grips?

Sure - reverse your buildup tape to match the taper.

Since the grip gets progressively smaller as you get towards the head end of the shaft, you make your buildup tape thickest at the mouth end, and taper it towards the butt end of the shaft. I had it done when I bought my first hybrids, and it worked out quite well.

Ah, that makes sense. I haven't done this sort of thing before, but it sounds doable.

Is this the same as a parallel grip?
If so ,Golfsmith do a grip kit for under $60 (13 grips plus tape ,vice and instructions).
http://www.golfsmith.com/ppage.php?s...CID=C16027x029
Worth a look.

I'm not familiar with the term "parallel grip" but it sounds right, i.e., the sides of a tapered grip aren't parallel. Thanks for that tip; it looks good, and knowing the term makes it easier to search for what I want.

I have pretty big hands, and I don't like a club that feels like it's rattling around in them.

The kit is just a nice bundle - I'm not sure if it saves you any money (although there is one way to check...)

The caveat is that you still have to do the reverse-tape buildup. It's not a really difficult job, just sort of picky-like. Use masking tape for the buildup, and then grip tape for the 'final layer that goes the entire length of where the grip will go (assuming you're using solvent and grip tape, and not a compressor).

I don't think you have to do any build up with these grips.

John Letters(r.i.p. to a great Scottish clubmaker) used the parallel grip on some of their clubs.
The grip is thicker at the bottom which negates the need to add build up tape.

Personally I hated these grips ,but I have small hands which means I need to use undersize grips and the parallel is anything but undersize.

I replace my grips all the time and find it to be very easy to do, except when it comes to ribbed grips.

How do you guys install ribbed grips while making sure the rib is perfectly aligned down the back of the shaft?