Reshafting Titleist 735CM irons.

These are forged, chrome clubs, steel shafted, tapered hossel and I’m reshafting with Rifle shafts. Questions:

1. I’m pulling the existing steel shafts myself, presumably with a torch although I can borrow a heat gun. Any cautions etc. Will the hossel "blue" if I torch it and if so, do those cleaners work well?

2. While the heads are off, I might try to clean up and polish off some of the nicks, chips, and marks, etc. Any recommendations, cautions, or products?

3. Air installing new grips.
http://www.golf_tuition_online.com/c...essed_air.html
I’ve regripped a lot of clubs with tape and solvent, but never with air only. I understand how it works, but have a few questions. Lowpost says apply 8" of masking tape to the shaft end. Please describe specifically what this means and what it’s for. Is this single sided tape? How wide? Should this cover the hole in the end of the shaft? Is the tape wrapped around the shaft or is it applied long ways?

Thanks for the help.

I'll assume that you've got tapered Rifles. As for the heat, use a good puller, and keep the heat moving. I like to orient the club so that the back of the hosel is facing me. This gives me the most hosel to work with, and if I scorch it and for some reason can't bring it back, then at least the scorching is on the side I don't see at address.

Sadly, I can't help here, except to say that you may want to practice on a garbage head first. I've done a little sole grinding on a satin finish, and it's easy to get it looking close.

Sorry if the instructions on air gripping are unclear. 8" is an arbitrary number that approximates the length of the grip. I use 2" wide tape, and just wrap it around the long way (so that the long sides meet (or would meet)). That way, I only apply the tape once, and am less likely to screw it up. I use regular run-of-the-mill masking tape. The key here is to make sure that the OD of the shaft and tape is greater than or equal to the ID or core of the grip. When you do this, you get no movement. Even on a .600 butt and a .60 core, I still add one layer of tape before blowing the grips on. Sometimes you get a little air trapped after you pull the nozzle. I find pushing something in and out the vent hole releases this little bit of extra air. I always twist the grip a little bit to make sure there's no air - and if there is, I'll try to massage it out.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
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PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Thanks LP. FYI, I’m pulling these by hand.

Anybody else?

Good luck - wear gloves. Keep the heat moving (this minimizes any possible bluing).

Just wanted to thank LP42 for the help. This little project turned out great. These clubs are a lot of fun to hit and weren’t really that hard to get used to. Very nice looking set, too, although mine are used. Ebay is a wonderful place.

For those who aren’t familiar:
http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/735cm.asp

You're welcome. I'm glad everything turned out OK.