Need help on driver shaft length

I've read that the standard length of a driver shaft (off the rack) is around 46" vs. the 43" shafts played by the pros. Now, are we talking of shaft length from end to tip or from end to sole of the club? The length of my driver shaft is 42" from end to tip (i.e. where the tip meets the hosel). On the other hand, if measured from end to sole, the total length is around 46½". The problem is that I feel my swing with the driver is too flat resulting in a lack of confidence with the club. On the other hand, my 17° 4 wood is just perfect. Would I be crazy to shorten the driver shaft 2"? I must confess that I haven't been fitted for the driver because we don't have launch monitors in these necks of the woods. I know you guys can help and any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I would reccomend that to LP (LowPost42)......

Don't know where you got that info on Pros using 43" drivers. That 43" measure used to be for the old wood (real wood) drivers back in the day, and was mostly due to club balance and swing weight. Now days with the new lite weight shafts and metal head matterial, you can go a little longer to help balance them out while still keeping the overall weight down, average is around 45", but most ameturer would probably fair better at 44". Drivers at 46" - 50" which is used, is a bit extreme, longer mean less control, and marginal added distance.

You can go to 43" to gain some control, but, with todays shafts and heads, you will probably need to add some weight to balance out the club. Adding head weight to a driver is difficult to do, most club fitter don't like doing it.

Addon: Here is good site with some info on shaft length
Pat Ryan Golf - "Old Articles Written by Tom" - Minnesota Custom Fit Golf Retail Store in Minnetonka Minnesota MN. Full service golf shop, custom made golf clubs, club components, custom fit, repair.">

My guess is that the 43" measurement refered to the shaft length only and not for the overall length. The off the rack measurement refers to the overall length of the club. Hence, my 46½ length driver seems to be a little uncomfortable (i.e. my swing is just a little too flat for my 5'10" due to the length of the club). I just want more precision with it. Now if I could shorten it a little without disrupting the balance, that would be great. Then again, maybe it's just fine and I happen to be the problem, who knows.

Here are the specs of my driver... if it helps: 400cc head with Fujikura reg. flex shaft

Measurement is done from the soled position to the butt end. Easiest way to do without a 48" or 50" ruler, is lay it flat on the side, place a ruler or something flat and place on the sole, measure from the ruler at the base near the hosel to the butt end of the club.

Unfortunately you have to be a little more specific then just a Fujikura shaft, there make about hundred different shafts ranging from 50 - 90 or more grams..lol..however most standard driver heads are 200 grams reguardless of size, it is as close to standard as they get, not all, but most will be in that area.

You can download this SW estimator:
Golf Clubmakers Swingweight Estimator - Accurate calculation of swingweight, total weight and balance point
just use it for this club, don't have to buy it, and plug in the numbers to see what shorting it might do, if you don't know what the head or shaft weight, try this calculator, might be easier:
Swing Weight Calculator

Unfortunately, metal driver, and metal heads in general, don't work like irons when adding weight, can't just drop in a tip wgt in like an iron, because these heads are hollow for the most part, and doing it like an iron, begins to goof with center of gravity, etc.. other things get messed with, so if you do have to add wgt, lead tape is probably your best bet, put it low and directly behind the sweetspot of the driver. Good luck, let us know if it helps.

As per your last post, the weight of the shaft is 55g on a Cleveland Launcher 400 head... I've got nothing else. I looked on the net to find more info, but to no avail. Come to think of it, the best thing I should do short of fiddling with the actual length is just choke on the shaft a little. I guess that should work.

Thanks for your previous info, I'll check it out and see what I can find. Given that I know nothing about club making, this should make for some interesting reading. Thanks again!

If you take off 2 inches, you'll change the swingweight about 12 points. That's pretty severe - the club will feel much, much lighter. It can be counteracted with *gulp* 24g of lead tape on the head. That's not the answer, either.

You may want to pull the shaft and measure the depth of the hosel - then put a tip pin in (you may be able to get away with a 9g tip pin). This will move the CoG a little higher and a little more towards the heel. It'll really help the feel of the club, but will weaken the shaft almost a flex. So you may want to get fitted and reshaft if you're going that route.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

I'm hitting the driving range tonight and try a few adjustments short of messing with the balance of the club. I'll see what happens when choking down on the shaft. It's probably not the best solution, but I really don't care if I lose a few yards. What I really want is precision off the tee... just like my 4 wood offers. I'll let you guys know how it went and thanks for the help and advice.

Why didn't you say you wanted more precision.

Sell the driver, buy a higher loft.

I changed grip on my driver a few weeks back and also shortened it from 45" to 44" by sawing off a piece at the top. I can't really say I've lost any distance but I am a lot straighter (at least I feel straighter). Haven't had to tape it either - feels nicely balanced as it is.

Try to play a round gripping down an inch or so. That should give you an indication of how it will play with a shorter shaft.

My point exactly Peter! The way I see it, if the shaft is a little shorter, the swing path will be less flat resulting in a more confident swing. Hence, the shots will be straighter.

On the other hand, if LowPost says that a higher lofted club will dramatically straighten shots, it must be true. I just don't understand why the shots will be straighter with a 12.5° driver vs. a 10.5° or even a 9°. I thought the length of the shaft had everything to do with this problem (given the whip, flex point, etc.). Goes to show how much I know about club mechanics.

I didn't mention I wanted more precision because I thought it was obvious. Guess it wasn't... my mistake.

I'm just ridin' ya a bit, doppleganger. The reason why 12.5 is straighter than 9 is because 12.5 offers more backspin. Now, for the same club, shorter (to a point) is better as it's easier to control. What will help you even more than loft is a change in face angle. For every 1° in FA, you kill 5-7 yards of lateral movement. This only works, however, if you let the club set up open or closed (rather than squaring it).

Case in point. My 11° Wishon 919THI is 1° closed. So, when I set it up square, it doesn't feel right, and I lose the ball left to right. When I set it up so that it points to the hook side (as it's supposed to) then I get a nice straight ball flight.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Yup, a nice straight ball is what it's all about with the driver.

I know you are!

In that case, with an 11° like yours or even a 12° driver with the same shaft lenght, the shot would be straighter only because the face produces more backspin? I might be hard headed here, but I was sure that the shaft length and flex was at fault. Well, I've learned something here. I'm going to have to test that on the range sometime. Thanks for the input! By the way, hadn't had a chance to test my shaft choking thing yet... the weather just isn't cooperating.

Yes, loft is the reason. It's also the reason why your SW is straighter than your driver - you didn't think that simply being 3 or 4 inches shorter made that difference, did you?

And be aware that you can go too short - giving yourself a very steep driver swing which puts all sorts of spin on the ball. This is not a good thing, as the smallest bit of sidespin is now magnified, and the extra backspin can cause ballooning.