Making a Yardage Book

OK, somebody stop me before I dedicate my life to this sport!

I just bought a rangefinder (2, acutually, through eBay - the Bushnell 400 and 800 - I didn't expect to win the 800), and am going to create a yardage book for my local course.

The thread on yardages has started all this (just like the Clubmaker forum at FGI got me into clubmaking - I know, I know, they're just excuses. Convenient, though!)

That said, I was wondering if anyone could point out some ways to make this outing faster and easier than just fudging through it? Off the top of my head the following DETAILED suggestions would be nice:

How to select a good target/reference point, how to define a bail out, how to do the green, and overall the way to work the hole.

__________________
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PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

The best way to do it is probably to pick the point at which a good drive usually lands and pace of 30 or 40 steps ahead and behind the mark. Then pick two prominent landmarks each side and get the yardages from there. That will give you room for boomers and slappers and for downwind/upwind conditions.

Without seeing the course I cant comment on bail outs I'm afraid, but picking some definite points a nice gap or sand wedge distance away from the centre of the green shouldnt go amiss.

That will get you started off at least then every time you go for a bounce game take the wee gadget with you and add a couple more for each hole. Within a few weeks you should have all the info you need.

D.

To answer the last first:
The ways to play the hole all depends on that day's wind and conditions. So this won't really help you there. You don't get to always play it the same way.

How to select a good target/ref point:
The distances to traps, hazards, rough and OB are essential to know off the tee when you have more in your bag to hit them, then you need to know the width of your landing areas. So measure the distances TO the targets from the front of the tee boxes (always adding yards where ever the tees are pegged) and then measure the width of those landing areas (usually walking it off or with your rangefinder) from edge to edge. As good golf courses go, this will be quite a lot of info the more hazards get involved, so simplify it whenever possible. What you are doing is getting a general risk% if you try to get in between hazards for the extra distances. Add a note for slopes on the landing areas. You may be trying to aim right at a trap knowning it will always kick away on the first bounce. Pete Dye loves hiding these rolling slopes in sections that look inviting to the eye, but are sometimes worse then traps. Get on one of his hills on either the front or back or even the sides, and you will wish you knew about those blasted animal cemetaries.

Bailouts:
Each approach shot will be basic math at the time of the approach taking again the conditions. Where you are on the fairway and the pin's location create the original target line. What is in the way needs to be known. So, the green's depth/width and the beginnings and end points of each trap/hazard are obviously needed. The bailout really depends on your abilities, the shot selection and the conditions. Basic bailouts are usually going to be the parts of the green that is the widest regardless of the pin's location, but another good bailout is always the side of the green the pin is not on giving you lots of room to chip and run rather then having to pitch to the short side. Always measure the points where large slopes start (usually running away from the green). If you want to get really detailed, measure each green based on it's multiple shelfs or tiers. Knowning those individual widths/depths are fun to know.

Ricky's on to something here. If every course had this information before you played a round...would you be more prepared...absolutely. A careful bit of planning could save you a lot strokes. I like what they have done on line in what could be a big advantage for those who know how to use a computer...

Way to go Ricky, thanks for sharing, all golf courses should have that information on their website.

Cheers!

Your other namesake...Harris

Thanks y'all. I plan to draw up some maps before I head out, then wander the course (after the thaw) and take measurements. I've got some pretty good targets in mind and am quite familiar with the course.

Whats the best way to draw up greens and ridges? Roll balls? Read the green? Pray the snow flattened them all out?

LowPost42, how about talking to the pro's at the course and get every tip and detail from them. They're not doing much with the snow on the ground and who know's, they might be very helpful....just a thought!

I like the idea, but my course doesn't have a pro (why do you think I'm working so hard? )

Good suggestion, though.

Ouch, that make's it tough. You're in for a big job! Good luck!

Swing consistency aside, one of the best things I ever did for my game was some caddying and really hone in on course management.

Not long ago, I decided to write a pdf about making a yardage book and offer it for free here.

Please let me know if you find the information in there useful.

Matt

When I am going to play a new course, I "google earth" it. Then, if possible, combine an online score card with the ruler function in google earth.

From this, I can generally get a pretty good feel for length to bends in doglegs, how far to hazards, how far to clear hazards, where I am likely to be after my drive (can I go for it on par 5s or can I cut off a dogleg), depth and bredth of the greens, etc.

As he said above Google Earth the golf holes, then go buy a GPS lol

Google Earth is great only if they've got the high-res pics... mariner, that's a great PDF. Thanks!

Just knowing the yardage to the hole is only the first step of several in knowing which club to pull. Using your range finder will give you this first step of information. After that, you need to factor in weather conditions, what is the shot's carry, and roll required, is the the pin up hill, or down hill from your ball's lie What type of lie do you actually have, and how are you actually swinging the club that particular day. What part of the green do need to land the ball on to make your first putt easier. Are you fading, hitting it straight, or drawing the ball on that particular day. Are you hitting the ball on the thin side, close to perfect impact, or maybe you are catching it a bit on the fat side. Are you pulling, or pushing shots. Is the pin located in the front, center, or rear part of the green. Are there any hazards protecting the pin placement creating a "sucker" pin. These are some of the questions you need to ask yourself after you know the yardage needed, which will include both carry, and roll of the golf ball. GJS