What happen to the 2 wood?

My father told me that (back in the day..1960's), quite a few of his golfing buddies played a 2 wood. That made me wonder..
My driver is a Titlest 983k 8.5 degree with a stiff flex speeder shaft. Usually I will hit around 6 or 7 fairways on a good day. Most of our course are not very long. What about this idea? I just purchased a Callaway x460 clone 12 degree driver head. I thought about a regular flex graman, graffaloy blue, or aldila nv shaft. The idea is this..... 3 wood distance with a smooth slower swing, but with a 460cc driver. Now is this silly or do people actually do this? You might have a 2 driver bag, depending on weather conditions, course length, etc..

Another question is this. Why do all irons have to be different lengths?
If the lie angle was adjusted to...lets say a 7 irons, then why couldn't all lengths be the same as a 7 iron? Cuz, everyone knows thats the easiest club to hit in the bag. lol.
Any ideas/opinions?

Hi Drtree.
The longer the shaft , the higher the clubhead speed through the ball while using the same swing speed.
If all the shafts for the differing club were the same length,you probably wouldn't notice a great deal of difference regarding distance, just different ball flights.

cheers

True dat.

If all the lofts are the same, you're right. However, loft is the #1 determiner of distance (assuming you hit all balls on the same spot on the face, e.g. out at the toe, center, heel, etc). So if they were different lofts, there'd be different distances, even if they were all the same length.

You're talking about a Thriver (three wood/driver). I do it. It's tough to hit that 455cc's off the deck, but there's huge confidence in it off the tee.

IIRC, a '2 wood' is 11-13°, with a 1 wood being < 11°.

They're different lengths to keep the swingweights close. 1irongolf.com makes irons (and woods) all one length. Anyway... for the 1/2" step; the headweight of each club goes up (or is supposed to) by 7g/head. That means if your 3 iron was 10g, your 4 iron would be 17g, your 5i 23g, and so on. Now, the tolerance from the manufacturer is +/- 3g. So what? Well, I'll explain that in a minute.
For those of you who have built clubs, you'll notice the same thing I did. While most tip-trimming instructions ask you to take progressively more tip trim as you work down the irons (from 3 to PW), usually in 0.5" steps, when you butt-cut them to length, all the butt cuts seem to be the same length. So this says what? That we take more and more off the tip the shorter the irons become. Why is this? First, it's to keep the shafts playing to the same flex. The progressively heavier heads need progressively stiffer shafts, so that they'll all play to the same flex, right? And somewhere along the line, we figured that a 0.5" step in the stiffness trim would go along well with a 7g weight increase. (obviously, as it seems to be the defacto standard). But lets remember that those tolerances for head weights are +/- 3g. So if you get your 5 iron at +3g, and your 6 iron at -3g, now there's only 1g weight difference between them. But I'll bet you your house that the 6 iron has 0.5" more removed from the tip than the 5 iron. Don't even get me started on +/- for lofts, and why two clubs are close to each other in distance...

OK, so, in a nutshell, the reason for the 0.5" step in clubs is so they'll all play to the same flex, ideally. Also, it helps keep the swingweights close.

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