3 wood Vs stong 3 wood

I understand there is a difference in loft. What is the purpose of a "strong" 3?

I use a R7 TP 13 degree 3 wood. I found that a standard 3 wood (15 degree) hit the ball too high for me so went for a stronger model. Think its all down to personal preference.

Thanks. You said the 15deg hit higher than you wanted. Was the distance approx. the same with the 13deg?

Shouldn't be. You should be able to hit it slightly farther. I play a 14* 3 wood. Its a great driver replacement on a tight hole. My shot dispersion is much tigher. I can play a very consistent fade. Feel that I will hit the fairway 9 out of 10 times. Plus I hit it about 230 with a fade.

The 2 degree difference in loft does a couple of things, lowering the launch angle slightly and putting a bit less spin on the ball. It doesnt really increase distance apart from the fact that the ball will run slightly further on hard fairways and it will help a little into the wind, distance will only really increase if you go for a slightly longer shaft (some 3+ come with a little bit more length in the shaft).

I switched from a 15 to a 13 degree last year and found that it was a better driving club and slightly better for into the wind.

D.

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Longniddry Golf Club Champ 2005.

In the Taylor Made Bag:

Callaway FT-3 Tour 9.5 Aldila NV 65S

Callaway Steelhead 3 Wood

Callaway Steelhead 5 Wood

Callaway X-16 3-PW

MacGregor Tourney 52 Degree

Cobra Phil Rodgers 59 Degree Rusty

Odyssey DFX 2-Ball

Callaway Tour iX

Thanks. Both of you gentlemen have been a big help in clarifing that for me. I think I'll look into acquiring a 13* this summer as it sounds like it would suit my needs nicely. Hmmm, Father's day isn't that far off...

I have both a strong (13) and a normal (15) 3w in my car, and select one for my bag only just before teeing off.

If my driver feels good in warm-up, I go with the 15 degree. If it feels shaky, I go with the strong 3.

It gives me a "precision driver" to go to if my driver fails. I don't use too much distance compared to the driver - especially if the driver is slicing right - but it puts me in a better position for my next shot.

I don't use the strong 3 from the fairway though, so I have to go to my 5 wood and give up a bit more distance on long par 5 holes. Again, it usually returns the favour by putting me in a better position despite being further out, and I would still prefer 110m from the fairway over 70m from the semirough.

If the course I play have 200m or longer par 3 holes, I will choose the strong over the normal 3w, just because it gives me that distance.

I find that picking the right combination of driver, strong 3, normal 3, 5w and hybrid can easily mean a few shots on the round.

And while driver lofts can indeed be as high as a strong 3, I still think the 3w is a more versatile club.

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//Mox
2008 bag:
Mizuno MX-500 460cc 10.5* Fujikura Tour Platform 26.3 stiff. (about to be replaced by MP-600 10,5* UST Proforce V2 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 3w 15* Fujikura Tour Platform 26.3 stiff.
Wilson Deep Red 5w 18* Graphalloy Fatshaft stiff
Cleveland HALO 3i hybrid 22* graphite regular
Mizuno MP-60e forged 5i-PW True Temper Dynamic gold R300 steel
Mizuno MP Black OX raw haze 50/6 GW, 54/9 SW, 58/10 LW
Heavy Putter B3-M
Titleist NXT Extreme

I just finished a fitting recommendation where I suggested both a 15° driver and a 16° 3 wood (stamped 15°). The 3w is good for off the deck and out of the rough, and the driver gives more confidence off the tee (and is built a little longer).

1 for distance and 1 for accuracy and versatility?

Is it the same shaft? And do you have any numbers on the expected difference in distance and dispertion?

Yes, same shaft for both clubs. The client wanted a 'driver' for off the tee, but is kind of a short knocker, and feels the need for a 'off the deck' option.

They're more comfortable with a 400cc head off the tee (they hover the club and tee it high) vs a sub 200cc head. So be it.

I've advised that distance off the tee will increase (current carry 150 yards w/10° driver and 60 mph SS). Distance between the 3w and 1w shouldn't be too much - possibly another 10 yards due to the increase in length and slightly stronger loft in the driver. I'm expecting to see this client hit balls about 200 yards now - yes, gain a full 1/3 more distance. More loft at low swingspeeds is key.

I fit a woman last year that has a ridiculously ugly swing - but she could hit a 10° driver 180 or 190 yards with a consistent 60mph swing speed. I fit her into a 17° head (a wonderfully off-spec head), with a 50g shaft. She now hits out about 230-240 (carry and roll) and even won longest drive in her ladies league last year - a 268 downhill/downwind bomb that she happened to nut.

Quite recently I was playing the almost the same combo - a 13° 460cc club at 44.5", and a 15° 200cc club at 42.75" - one for off the tee, and another for off the deck. The reason (for me) was a steep swing creating a negative angle of attack with the driver, resulting in a too-low trajectory with anything less lofted. I've worked that problem out, and am now playing a 10.75° driver with a big brass backweight to increase LA without adding too much more spin. And I still have an off the deck/out of the light rough option.

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True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Nothing beats a good fitting.

Do you use any tools to evaluate things like "smash effect" and ball compression?

I'm not aware of anything that figures out compression (rather than sound), but smash factor can be figured out with swing speed vs ball speed (I've got a radar that measures both).

I use video, SSR, WTF measurement, a grip size example display, a lie board and a launch angle mat to fit (LA mat only for drivers). Video shows me the release and impact position of my client (which tells me if I need to work harder or not on finding a shaft). I'm about to experiement with a new shaft fitting system - the originator claims 85% success; which is a good starting point. I also use some trajectory software to look at potential changes to loft and shaft kick point, etc to see what changes could be made to increase distance. The only thing I'm missing is something to quantify spin - but I may buy a Vector to help with that (and then I can also retire the Launch Angle mat).

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.