52%,56% or 60% wedge?

I've been playing golf a long time, to be honest without much thought. I play around my local course at around 10 -15 over par.This year my main aim is to improve my short game because that is where the scoring is.I just have a standard set of clubs with a PW and a SW.
1. Does anyone know the average loft of the PW and SW.
2. What one club do you think would help me most ie. 52%,56% or 60%.
3. Any suggestions for best value for money wedge product ie.good feel and something not too hard to check the ball to a stop quickly on the greens?
Any help would be much appreciated

PW ~48*, SW ~56*, +/- 2 degrees
If your PW is 48* and your SW 56* then a set of 48*, 52*, 56*, 60* would be fine (you should drop the 60* if you only want 3).

You should always try to get an evenly distributed set, i.e a set 48*, 54*, 60* (6 degrees diff) or 50*, 54*, 58* (4 degrees diff) would also work fine.
I'd recommend Cleveland's 588 Tour Action. That's what I use

Personally, I play a set of 48*, 52* (bent 51*), 56* and 60*. The PW is part of my Titleist iron set and the 3 other wedges are 588's.

__________________
Regards, Peter
(WITB)

I agree with Peter wholeheartedly (except on the wedge recommendation!)

Vokeys are popular, but I prefer SMT Durometers. CNC Milled faces add even more spin, for more stopping power.

I like vokeys too, but they are more expensive than 588's

I haven't tried SMT's, so can't say.

Most wedges are great, it's more a matter of personal taste (and money!).

I often hesitate to mention component heads/clubs when talking to folks across the pond.

I've been lead to believe that components (SMT, Bang, Alpha, Geek, Ashton, etc) aren't as widely available as they are here, and that they end up being marginally cheaper than OEMs.

Now, that said, I still think that components are superior to mass-produced OEMs on three fronts. One being that you get 'more head for the money', as most components don't have huge advertising budgets, and don't pay tour players to play their gear. The second front is that if you find a good clubfitter/clubmaker, your clubs will automatically play better for you (as they'll be fitted to you - which off the rack clubs may rarely ever do). The third front is that components are often built with tighter tolerances - no more six and seven irons going the same distance! For the ultimate in tight tolerances, check out the yet-to-be-released (but in production) Ashton E3.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Yep, components are rare, at least in Sweden.

Ordering on-line might sometimes be cheaper, but with taxes and postage and the problems and costs with sending back items combined with the fact that you can't try anything out, most of us probably just buy the standard clubs from the stores.

Guys,
Thanks for your input, I've taken a note of your suggestions, will do a little more homework on the net then purchase.
Cheers.

Hogan makes good wedges.
60 degree wedges are hard to use if you don't practice with them alot.

Many say that, but I don't agree. I guess it's a personal thing what you find easy (or, should I say, less difficult ) and I always found chipping and pitching to be a lot easier than driving and long irons.