Shopping for a driver

Ok I know this will probably open up a big can of worms, but I'd really like to find out what kind of differences would I be expecting from the various brands? I would probably be looking for something with a regular flex as I don't think my swing speed is fantastic, so that takes care of the shaft selection right? I'd also prefer to get a big head, so I'm currently looking at the 460cc.

That said, I'm still looking at tonnes of choices. Of course the names that I seem to see a lot are Cleveland, Titleist and TaylorMade - so these are the brands that I'm looking at currently. Even so, they seem to have quite a few models between them?

So I'm wondering, given the same shaft flex, head size and loft, should I really be expecting a lot of difference between the brands???

go get fitted, launch monitor and everything


it will make sure you get the best possible driver for YOU

Wrong. I didn't think my swing speed was all that great (and it isn't), but I was surprised to learn it was ~105 MPH. That's most manufacturers Stiff, and some XStiff. But beyond that, it's tough to gauge the flex of an OEM shaft without putting it on gear.

I'll support that statement.

Yes. Each head is designed differently, to do different things. Some heads are offset, some are closed, some are both, some are neither. I'll say it again, the number stamped on the bottom of a club doesn't mean anything - drivers included. Just because it says 10.5° doesn't mean it is 10.5°. The tolerance on clubs is +/- 1° (save the Ashton E3 - it's tolerance is purportedly +/- 0; for everything). Weight distribution in each head will affect launch, grooves (or lack thereof) will affect spin rates. All this, and it still has to fit your eye.

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I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Thanks lowpost. I know I'm asking all this prematurely - at the end of the day, I'll still need to go and get my swing analyzed so they can recommend the suitable specs. On the other hand, I am considering getting a cheap driver meanwhile to work on (ok I admit more for fun), as my current driver is I think is only 320cc. Therefore I thought I could just go and get a cheap 460cc and regular flex driver until I'm ready to get one that fully suits my new improved swing (in the future of course :P). Any harm in that? :P

Go to your local golf shop and test out as many drivers as they wil let you. If you are getting a swing analysis, they will be much more helpful as they then know you are serious about buying a club.

Yep - plenty of harm. You'll take a driver that may not work for you AT ALL, and then change your swing to hit it (or your swing won't change, and you'll further frustrate yourself and believe you can't hit a driver).

Follow Gord's advice (try, try, try), then get some hard numbers and buy.

I would also follow lowposts advice and get a driver that would work. Though, that does not rule out some of the cheap drivers. I think you might find that they are as good if not better then the big brands. If the cor is close to the legal limit and it's 460 cc and has a high end shaft, though I would see if I could test one.

Bob

In addition to the cheaper models, don't forget to include component clubs. If you are already planning to get a swing analysis, they will match your shaft to your swing and the loft and weight of your club to produce your optimum ball flight. Do some research and ask TONS of questions. There are MANY quality component companies out there. Some of the more popular component companies are Snake Eyes, Bang, SMT, Dynacraft and Ashton.

What's the definition of component clubs? Do you mean that they piece the head, shaft and grip separately? At this point I really know nuts about the shafts and grips, but would the heads be so called 'brandless'? I mean it's not like I'm that brand conscious, as long as the specs are the same I don't really care :P

Well I've decided at least one thing from our discussion here so far. I will not go out to get a cheap 460cc driver, but rather more inclined towards getting an affordable older model from the better known ones. For example I'll look at the TaylorMade R580 rather than the R5, the Cleveland Launcher Ti460 rather than the Hi-bore or whatever they call it :P

[quote=Simon Woo]Thanks lowpost. I know I'm asking all this prematurely - at the end of the day, I'll still need to go and get my swing analyzed so they can recommend the suitable specs. On the other hand, I am considering getting a cheap driver meanwhile to work on (ok I admit more for fun), as my current driver is I think is only 320cc. Therefore I thought I could just go and get a cheap 460cc and regular flex driver until I'm ready to get one that fully suits my new improved swing (in the future of course :P). Any harm in that? :P

I am also looking for a new driver. I was just flipping through a golf magazine and their top pick, of the new drivers, is the TaylorMade 460 (which may be American, I think, in Canada it is a 425 or 455) it is the newest in the R7 line. I will try that one next - I am a lefty, and that driver isn't here yet for leftys. I am very partial to the Taylormade - and a little bit apprehensive about testing it (althought I will first) a new driver which isn't mine. I would hate to sky one with a new driver!!!

With all of the choices out there it is not too hard to find a solid driver!



James

Great stuff James. I'm more on a budget, mainly because I know I will be changing equipment as I continue to work on my swing. I've checked my local prices, seem like the models one generation earlier are about half the price of the latest models, so I'll most likely go for one of those (as I don't think they'll make that much of a difference to me at this point actually). Plus I'm sure there are a lot of players out there who have not rushed out to buy the 2006 models so I will not be any 'worse off' than them :P

ya - pretty much. They wouldn't be brandless, but definitely not as well known. Many component parts are better than the big name OEM companies heads. The reason they aren't as high priced is because they don't have the high advertising costs and aren't paying a bunch of pros to wear their logos and use their equipment. If you only do a little research on the names I gave you and review some of the older threads on this site, you will have a really good idea. From there, order the head and take it to your local clubmaker. They will analyse your swing and tell you which shaft will best suit your swing and the shaft. Most clubmakers will also carry some component line in their shop, so you can just walk in and they should have a demo around that you could try out. I would definitely go this route if you are on a budget. Remember, the shaft is the engine of the club. Without a good shaft that is matched to your swing, a $500 head is worthless. Most OEM clubs have poor quality shafts in them off the shelf, so you are not getting the maximum value for your money. The clubmaker will ensure that the best shaft for YOUR swing is installed in your club.

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Gord

Quote of the month:
"It's easy to see golf not as a game at all but as some whey-faced, nineteenth-century Presbyterian minister's fever dream of exorcism achieved through ritual and self-mortification." ~Bruce McCall

. Most OEM clubs have poor quality shafts in them off the shelf, so you are not getting the maximum value for your money. The clubmaker will ensure that the best shaft for YOUR swing is installed in your club.[/quote]


I believe this was true 5 years ago, but I think that Taylormade, Callaway and Cleveland have figured out that to make a successful product that will increasea average golfers yardage you need to put a high quality shaft in the product. The market is too competitive and there is too much information being shared for them to just too rely on the brand and any shafts. That and there is still a lot of profit margin when you sell the club for $399. Now it is still true that if you get a shaft to fit your swing you can pick up some yardage (I would guess around 5 yds or so) over the off the rack shafts, but if you just randomly pick a high end shaft to throw on the driver you can just as easily lose yardage.

Bob

Extra distance isn't the only gain. A properly matched shaft will also consistantly produce straighter shots with more consistant ball flight and the distance should be relatively the same with each good shot.

The big names are usually putting in shafts that were big news a couple years ago, which are fine, but won't jump to the newest technology because the average Joe hasn't heard of it. Not only that, the shafts that the big names are peddling in their driver does not suit every golfer.

As for value, you still see manufacturers putting their 'stock shaft' in a head for 1 price, then a 'high performance shaft' in at a much higher price.

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Gord

Quote of the month:
"It's easy to see golf not as a game at all but as some whey-faced, nineteenth-century Presbyterian minister's fever dream of exorcism achieved through ritual and self-mortification." ~Bruce McCall

I disagree, Bob.

The NV you get in your Callaway 454 is not the same NV I buy from a supplier and install. The OEM NV is softer - some by a full flex.