Stiff or regular shafted wedges?

I've been playing golf for about a year now and I'm looking at working on my short game. I'm looking a getting a gap and lob wedge from the Mizuno MP-T range.

According to Dave Pelz' Short Game Bible he suggests wedges should have regular or more flexed shafts for more feel. However, the Mizuno wedge comes with 'wedge flex' as standard which is the Dynamic Gold S200 stiff shaft.

I use a regular graphite shaft in my driver and stiff steel shafts in my irons (these irons where given to me) which I can hit balls straight with both! Thus I am confused whether to go for the standard stiff shafts on the Mizuno or follow Dave Pelz' advice and look for a regular shafted wedge

I've tried both routes.

The answer (for me) is that stiffer is better. I tend to full swing any club in the bag so I want the extra stability of a stiffer shaft.

When I used softer flexes in my wedges, I had better feel on short shots, but looser dispersion. (Yes, I'm a 23 handicap, but even I have dispersion tolerances - especially on short shots )

hi
i think you want control and think a stiff shafted wedge will give you that, you will as lowpost says get more feel with a softer shaft in a wedge but think the control will vary more. after a few days using a stiff shaft you wont give it another thought, i have reg shafts in my irons and stiff in my wedges and stiff graphite in my driver.
works for me.
bill

My Cobra wedges have the dynamic gold wedge shafts in them and they are fine for me but the cobra wedges are scalpels compared to most other wedges cos they are quite light in the head. I find Vokeys, Callaways and Mizuno wedges quite heavy so they would probably benefit from a 400 weight dynamic gold to help disperse the weight through the club.

I use R300's in my irons because I like the fact that regular shafts let me hit the ball softer when I need to. Stiffer shafts mean you have to hit the ball full on more.

On the other hand I use extra stiff shafts in my woods because the sole aim for me is to hit them as hard as I can.

Try and test drive a couple of different combinations and see what you prefer, again I cant recommend Cobra wedges highly enough, they are top quality clubs.

D.

__________________
Longniddry Golf Club Champ 2005.

In the Taylor Made Bag:

Callaway FT-3 Tour 9.5 Aldila NV 65S

Callaway Steelhead 3 Wood

Callaway Steelhead 5 Wood

Callaway X-16 3-PW

MacGregor Tourney 52 Degree

Cobra Phil Rodgers 59 Degree Rusty

Odyssey DFX 2-Ball

Callaway Tour iX

If the Cobras are swingweighting on the light end vs Titleist, Callaway and Mizuno, then switching to a heavier shaft will help bring the swingweight up. However, for a more 'balanced' club, backweighting is the key. For more swingweight, another option would be adding weight to the head.

I'm currently running an experiment with ridiculously stiff shafts.

My irons are currently shafted with TT DGS X100's tipped to length (within reason - I still wanted some kind of freq curve), and I've got an Integra Quadratic drying with a Frenzy 80 XXXX in it at 44.5"

FWIW, I found TTDG R300's to feel nice, but the X100's feel better - and my dispersion is much better along with a bit of a lower ball flight.

As for wedges, more and more companies are going to texture milled faces (the new Wishon CX Micro, SMT Durometer, and the latest Vokey offering). This is a curse/blessing technology. For full swings, it adds more spin to your shot (measureable and playable), and tends to have you hitting shorter than a similiarily lofted club. However, on half shots, this milling adds extra spin - so extra check and extra stopping power compared to a non-milled clubhead.

So milling is something to consider when purchasing new wedges.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.