Taylormade R7 425 - Weight differences

Hi

A quick question, does anyone know what yardage difference in direction changing the weights in the above R7 model makes.

Mine was setup for "more draw" rather than "draw". The thing is I always draw the ball anyway and really struggle to fade unless I adjust my alignment rather than use club face position at impact.

The taylormade guy set it up like this and I have been hitting massive draws and quite a few duck hooks but my irons and 3 wood are fine!

I am changing the weights tonight and will give it another go setup as neutral.

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JCBDB

All I know is that I had one of those R7's and I noticed no difference in reducing my draw even by putting the weights such to hit a fade. It lasted a whole month in my bag.

Not the answer I was hoping for but thanks!

My friend hit my driver and he always, and I mean always hits a fade and never hits a driver, a 3 wood at most.

He hit my R7 setup for "more draw" and hit a nice long drive with a controlled draw. For which I tried to claim a 1 shot penalty for using my clubs but he protested!

I have never seen him hit a draw and he hit a second doing just the same.

This really does make me think it is the weights and I will give it ago and see what happens. As this only happens with my driver I am hoping it fixes it but it maybe using a driver just exagerates a swing fault not seen in shorter clubs.

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JCBDB

I have both r7s. I do like the r7 425 over the r7 quad. The slightly larger clubhead gave me a little more forgiveness.

I will say this. I had my r7 quad set up in the "most draw" position. This was about 2 years ago when my hands just weren't releasing enough. If I hit my old r580 I would hit a big bombing fade. If I hit my r7 quad, I would hit a big straight bomb.

As I worked on swing, I found I needed to to shift the weight to the "draw" position. I forget what they call that, lower neutral or whatever. TM's website has that interactive guide.

I now play my new r7 425 in the neutral position.

In any event, to make a long story longer and explain what might be happening....your friend who is a fader probably doesn't close the face enough. His path might be OK, maybe not inside far enough, but he sure isn't closing the face enough. The "most draw" position will help close the face.

If you close the face properly, you don't need the "most draw" position. You talk about having a swing flaw...says who? If the club is set up improperly, it will not work properly

Go back to the neutral position and hit a couple. See what happens. Track your flight. If you are hitting it straight or with a slight draw you don't need to go to a draw setup.

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What's in my bag....
Cleveland VP 2 Blade Putter
Ping Tour Wedges, 54 & 60
TaylorMade rac LT2, 4i thru PW
Tour Edge Exotics Iron-Wood 21* 3i - Aldila NV 90 Stiff Shaft
Ping G5 18* 5 Wood - ProLaunch Blue 75 Stiff Shaft
Ping G5 15* 3 Wood - Aldila NV 75 Stiff Shaft
Cleveland HiBore XL 9.5* - Fujikura Fit-On Red Stiff Shaft

Thanks, you are of course right.

I have changed the weights to "draw" and moved the ball to just forward of centre stance and things when better but still a little too much draw for my liking.

Back to "low neutral" settings and the ball an inch inside the left heel and 90% of drives were straight with a nice trajectory. There is still the odd duck hook and have managed to book a lesson next week with my pro to resolve this (which is amazing as I normally have to book a month or more in advance for any available lesson!).

The conclusion - the excessive draw was the setup of the club. The duck hook - how knows but I think it is a setup issue or hooding the club on the way back. It will be sorted before next weeks match though....hopefully!

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JCBDB

A duck hook, to me, is coming over the top with a shut face. It can happen to a "good" golfer if you loose balance, getting tired, or just try to swing out of your socks.

Sounds like you have some pretty "active" hands. A pro will be able to identify this pretty quick.

I have been using the R7 quad TP 400cc. for two years and have it set up with 14 and 12 in toe and 2's in heel. Go online at Taylormade and check out their wheel or buy a wheel, this will set you up as you desire. On TM site, using the wheel is fun so I just bought a wheel for 12 bucks and I change my weights to accomodate the kind of course I play. You just can't change the weights during play-against the USGA rules.
Beats lead tape which is what lots of us used for many years to get the shot shape we wanted. You will see some pro's today still using lead tape.