Choice of Wedge Loft/Bounce

Ive tried out virtually every wedge I think there is and have decided on the MpT series (Im turning into Mizunoman!) but what would you recommend I use as a set up?

I have a mp fli hi 2 iron which I love so only got room for SW LW and with my PW at 47 deg what loft/bounce set up would you guys recommend.
Here are the options:


51/06 Strong lofted gap wedge with medium bounce
53/08 Standard lofted gap wedge with medium bounce
56/10 Standard lofted sand wedge with medium bounce
56/13 Standard lofted sand wedge with high bounce
58/10 Strong lofted lob wedge with ample bounce to be used as a sand/lob wedge
60/05 Standard lofted lob wedge with low bounce
60/08 Standard lofted lob wedge with medium bounce

Any help appreciated!
Thanks

Assuming your irons stop at your 47° PW, and you're looking for a 2 wedge recommendation, here are a couple options.

The 53.08 and the 58.10, both bent a degree strong. This will give you 5° gaps between wedges (a bit strong for my liking - I like to see no more than 4°) They'll all serve as decent full swing clubs, and the 58 will still be useful out of bunkers.

Option 2:

The 51.06 and the 56 with appropriate bounce for bunkers at your home course. This makes the 51 another full swing club, and makes a nice loft gap between it and your PW. There will be a bigger yardage gap between the GW and the SW vs the PW and GW.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

Optimal wedge set really depends on the skills set you got + which type of courses you normally play. I'm using Pelz system (3 wedges though) and my home course has more hard ground than fluffy grass. I got 48 degree wedge with 8 degree bounce, 54 - 10 and 60 - 06.
Ideally I would have several wedges with different bounces to adjust to courses with other kind of conditions. This would give me option to adjust my set for any given course and even swap 3i to 64 degrees should I feel this would benefit my game.
I really have selected lofts to match full swing distances since I can any way fill the gaps with finesse swings with 3 wedges.

I own the following MP-Tseries wedges ...

50/06
51/06
54/9
56/10
58/10
60/08

(some are the current MP-Tseries Raw Haze, others are the MP-series Raw Black Haze, which are basically the same clubs only older).

I usually carry 3 along with my MP-60 47deg Pitching Wedge.

I started out choosing simply from angles, picking the 50, 54 and 58 degree wedges, trying to get even gaps. But that didn't result in even gaps between the resulting distances, so now I carry the 51 as a Gap Wedge and then choose from the 54 or 56 and the 58 or 60, based on the nature of the course.

__________________
//Mox
2008 bag:
Mizuno MX-500 460cc 10.5* Fujikura Tour Platform 26.3 stiff. (about to be replaced by MP-600 10,5* UST Proforce V2 stiff)
Mizuno F-50 3w 15* Fujikura Tour Platform 26.3 stiff.
Wilson Deep Red 5w 18* Graphalloy Fatshaft stiff
Cleveland HALO 3i hybrid 22* graphite regular
Mizuno MP-60e forged 5i-PW True Temper Dynamic gold R300 steel
Mizuno MP Black OX raw haze 50/6 GW, 54/9 SW, 58/10 LW
Heavy Putter B3-M
Titleist NXT Extreme

i use to have a 60° lob wedge with 6° bounce. but was near impossible to hit.

I went and got another 60° LW with 12° bounce and it makes life so much easier as it doesn't dig into the grass as much as a lower degree of bounce club. also if you hit it fat the ball still goes somewhere without taking out a dinner plate sized piece of grass.

How did the low level of bounce make the wedge difficult to hit? This is new to me. I have a 58 degree lob wedge with M/B which I assume is medium bounce - I was having trouble around the greens, espeially if the ball was sitting tight - so I got a 60 degree lob wedge with 4 degrees of bounce - the other day I was hiiting from a hill just behind the green, and the green was a downward slope - with the 4 degrees of bounce in the lob wedge, the ball went up gently and landed gently - I heard Mickelson grinds his wedges to the point where bounce is nearly non-existent.

James

i'm sure a lot of it was how i hit a ball too. but it just made the clubhead look like it was laying flat on the grass. i would either thin it or hit it fat.

A low-bounce LW can be very useful for getting out of greenside bunkers where the sand is fairly packed.

Ditto on the previous post about hard or wet sand. A low bounce LW is also good for pitching and chipping off very tight lies without having to deloft the club.

you shouldn't have to deloft the club as it's already at 60°. i have used this in hard packed bunkers and you just play it like any other SW from a bunker, and being a hard packed bunker you really have to hit the sand hard as not to skim ontop of the sand.

i rarely use this club, but it doesn't come in handy. especially for those 20m out shots where there is a bunker next to the green. i can hit it high. or i can also use the club for a chip and stop, if there is a bunker in the road.

from my experience. i don't think this should be a club that you rely on because it's not the easiest club in the bag to hit consistent all the time. the SW gets more use as it's easier to hit even if you only have a couple of metres to the hole just off the green.

but like everything, it's all practise. find something that you feel confident with and use and abuse it.

Frankly, I don't understand why people struggle with using a 60° wedge.

IF the 1/2" per club idea is the logic behind why short irons are 'easier' to hit, then the 60 should be the easiest. (So obviously it's bunk).

If it's built properly, the 60 is no different than any other club - in fact, most 60's are only a gram or two heavier than your GW or PW - you should, in essence, have more trouble swinging your SW than your 60, as it's up to 12g heavier than your PW.

I say it's totally mental. And I love my 60. The only place I find a 60 is tough is when your ball is fluffed up in long rough - then, at 60°, it's far too easy to slide the face under the ball. Anywhere else and it's just as good as any other club... save maybe a driver.

__________________
True Length Technology Fitter - www.truelengthtechnology.com
It's live! - www.ShipShapeClubs.com
PCS Class 'A' Clubfitter

A new highlight: Golfing the home course on Christmas Day.

I say it too often: If it's golf club shaped, you can play with it.

For the record, I'm a club doctor, not a swing doctor.

To clarify, a low bounce wedge does NOT need to be delofted for a short pitch or chip off a very tight fairway lie, hardpan, or a wet bunker. That’s why it’s so handy. If you only have a high bounce sand wedge, there is a greater tendency to skull this same shot unless you lean the shaft forward more to effectively lessen the bounce. This also effectively delofts the club and produces a lower ball flight, obviously. Not what you want if you’re trying to hit it high and short and/or trying to stop it fast.

A 60 degree low bounce lob wedge is a very flexible club. You can play it normal and get up and down, as above. You can come in steeper, for a buried lie in deep rough or a bunker and still have quite a bit of "effective" loft. You can also open it up to add even more loft without having too much "effective" bounce.